Build Day 43- Post Build Prep

Day 43- Post Build Prep

Woo... just what I want to be doing on my birthday, but needs must, and the trailer needs loading and the car needs preparing for the Post Build Inspection.

Suspension Set-up    

Before taking the car to Caterham we decided to have a go at getting the suspension set up, with roughly 15mm between the front and back. This turned out to be incredibly difficult due to the rear adjustments put the front out, then the front adjustment puts the rear out. If we had a lot more time then it wouldn't be so bad, but we had a lot to do before we could finish, so we decided to get the difference right and get some advice from Caterham when the car goes in.

The keys for the old Bilstein shocks aren't really big enough for the newer, larger adjustable platforms on the newer shocks.

Fuel Filler Shroud 

Caterham quickly sent the correct filler shroud after we asked them for it, so we've been able to fit it tonight. 

Held down by two self tappers into the boot floor.

Fuel Gauge  

Along with the new bulkhead carpet and filler shroud came the correct fuel gauge to match the rest of the gauges. The correct gauges have red needles, however the fuel gauge fitted had a yellow needle and looks like it is normally from the 620R. 

Correct fuel gauge.

Tyre Pressures 

The tyres come pre-inflated to between 30psi and 40psi in order to properly seat the tyre on the wheel. For our tyre/wheel combo- 15" Orcus Wheels with Avon CR500 Tyres, we require 18psi of pressure in each tyre, front and back. 

Pressure beforehand. Just releasing small amounts until correct pressure.

Loading the Trailer

The big job tonight was fitting the winch into the front of the trailer, and then sorting a power source as Dad's car doesn't have a separate power socket. After the winch was in and working all there was to do was to put the car in ready for the 0530 departure in the morning, in order to get from Cambridge to Crawley for 9am. 

My car's battery powering the winch, and being controlled by remote control.

Carr all done and ready to get into the trailer.

While I steered dad directed and controlled the winch.

Plenty of room either side too, in order to be able to get in. 

Room to spare front and back, with lashing eyes in all corners and two in the centre.

Lashings on all four wheels then crossed for added strength. Also the cover is to protect the car as water condensates in the ceiling.

Build Day 21- Sump Tank Plug and Watts Linkage

Day 21- Sump Tank Plug and Watts Linkage

Sump Tank Plug

Bought some copper washers from the local car shop and fixed our hole problem.

   

Bolt, spring washer, plain washer, and copper washer.

Watts Linkage

After going to fit the rear wings we found that it is easier to fit the wings first then the watts linkage (or radius arms if not opted), this way a slot doesn't have to be cut out of the wing, the hole may only have to be widened. 

First we attached the rod ends to the link arms, measured to 475mm and 244mm centre to centre of the rod ends, then tightened the rod end using the locking nut. 

Dab of Loctite under the locking nut.

The link rod ends are then inserted into the bellcrank after the bell crank is widened to fit the rod ends. The rod ends are attached with the small bolts ensuring that the locnuts are on the same side as the raised side of the bellcrank, and that the waisted sides of the link arms are on the appropriate side.

Through Bolts for chassis attachment. Plenty of copper slip used.

In order for the bellcrank to fit into the di dion tube the brackets had to be widened. We did this using a rag covered crowbar. The bellcrank spacers are then pushed into position inside the brackets (convert the 1/2"  holes to 10mm holes for the bolts to be seated). The bellcrank is inserted and then bolts threaded through.

Bellcrank in bracket.

The link arms are then bolted to the chassis using appropriate bolts and washers, then torqued to required value. To get the arms to align properly the di dion tube has to be lifted slightly to align holes. This is where two pairs of hands comes in handy.

We followed this method as we found that if following the instructions (link arm on first, then torqueing the arms when parallel to the ground, then attaching bellcrank) the link arms just rotate when moved into position for the bellcrank, meaning that there is not much value in the arm being spring loaded. 

Right hand side in.

Build Day 16- 'A' Frame and Rear Dampers

Day 16- 'A' Frame and Rear Dampers

'A' Frame

We went out first and aligned the A frame and torqued it as required. The alignment was 3.5mm to the RHS off centre, with the advised 4 washers on the right and 3 washers on the left. We removed one large washer from the LHS then added a thinner heavy duty washer from each side. Then Torqued the frame and measured it again, which brought it within 1mm of centre (well at least was to the best of our abilities to accurately measure the alignment...).

Rear Dampers

We then moved onto the rear dampers which, as many other things, took longer than expected. The fit for the top bush was very tight, sufficiently enough for several whacks with a rubber mallet to not budge it an inch. Instead we used a fairly long, thin piece of hard wood, and a lump hammer in order to coax it in. Then end was placed on the edge of the bush and "persuaded" into place.    

Damper finally in place.

Here the calliper wasn't in place as the hub nut needed to be tightened for the disk to not foul on the calliper bracket. So after the dampers went in we fitted the calliper properly.

Bush in place with caphead in place.

New socket adapters. Bottom right (1/2" F to 3/4" M) used in 41mm socket.