Build Day 6- Gearbox Filling and Engine In

Day 6- ENGINE IN!!!

Gearbox Oil

First off we decided to fill the gearbox before sticking the engine in as we aren't concerned with weight due to the two ton lifting capacity of the engine hoist. 

However, first problem of the day:

• We do not have a 3/8" Allen key.

Second problem:

• We have only been supplied with 1Ltr of gearbox oil and 1Ltr of Diff oil. 

So, off to B&Q for a cheap imperial Allen key set and the local car shop for some more GL-4. However when it came to buying more oil the shop didnt have any GL-4 in stock, so we improvised and went for some GL-5 instead, as the manual and owners manual both state that both are suitable in their gearboxes. After my dad did some research after we finished tonight it turns out that previous owners have pondered the same but have been told by Caterham, when asked, that only the GL-4 is suitable and the manual and the handbook would be updated... (or not)

In light of this we have come to the conclusion that it will not do any damage and we will be changing all the oil after the 500 mile run in anyway.  

Much easier before it's in...
Gearbox levelled off and filled until dripping out the hole. 

Rubber foot attached before lowering in.

Engine In

First we dragged the engine on the pallet over to the front of the car and aligned it with the hoist. After creating a strop and adjusting the lengths to roughly get a 40 degree angle on the engine, we bubble wrapped the gearbox to protect the chassis tubes while trying to fit such an immense engine and gearbox into such a small space. Also, as instructed, the long "L" shaped hose onto the back of the engine, a bit fiddly as the 40mm jubilee clip is not big enough to slide on while it has bitten. We remedied this by clamping it with some pipe grips then tightening with the driver.   

Wrapping the gearbox.

Unease as it is slowly lifted. 

At this point we were still optimistic about it being able to fit without any engine modification.
Beforehand we also added extra protection along the engine bay and around the tunnel to protect the heat shielding and chassis tubes.

The manual states to remove alternator, remove starter motor, and fit the long "L" shaped hose. Our advise (for Duratec engines on SV model at least) is to NOT fit the hose as it interferes with the wiring loom; do NOT remove starter motor; REMOVE alternator; REMOVE right hand engine mount. The alternator is easier than some might think, as there is a self tensioning pulley at the top, and two bolts top and bottom of the alternator.

In the end we admitted defeat and raised the engine slightly to modify things.
Alternator  unbolted and cable tied to plenum chamber.

Much easier now without mount and hose.

Once the gearbox was nearly in position we put the trolley jack under the car to lift the gearbox and also allowing for a higher and further pivot point, allowing for the engine to lower and not the gearbox.  

Trolley jack under rubber foot. We had previously packed the cup on the jack with layers of silicone to protect the paint on the chassis.

Once the gearbox foot aligned with the bolt holes for the bracket we loosely bolted it in place so we could get the jack out of the way and fully align the engine mounts.

Lowering Gearbox onto bracket.

Once the foot was in place we lowered the engine into position over the rubber engine mounts we reattached the RH engine mount bracket and through bolted them in place.

Engine roughly in place with L hose back in place (albeit the wrong place, which only emphasises the point of, "why the hell are we asked to put it in beforehand"). 

Mount re torqued to block.

Possibly overkill for the hoist, but very handy.

Touching on RH side of bellhousing and LH starter motor. These both do not allow for any more adjustment either way without damaging the heat shielding. Will ask Derek for advise as to how they align the engine.

Bracket and foot torqued. Foot to bracket bolts left for later when adjusting alignment.

View down the underside to finish the night. Also we had to lower the front off of our handmade rolling axle stands due to the stands being too wide to fit the hoist around it and too low to fit the hoist under it.

Build Day 5- Gear Box and Bits

Day 5- Gearbox and Bits

Washer Bottle

First off we ran the windscreen washer tube into position before the engine and gearbox can fill the tunnel. We just lowered the tube down through the top of the tunnel and through the seal, then loosely cable tied the hose to the wiring loom, then tucked it in behind the passenger foot well ready for the washer bottle fitment. 

Wiring loom up through tunnel. Heater not plugged in yet as it seems impossible to find the plug without lying upside down in the foot well...

Washer bottle in for dry run, has  to be put in after the engine fitment as the mounts can't get passed otherwise.

Horn

As we have the dry sump system as standard in our car the normal horn mounts are not used due to the dry sump tank being in its place. An 8mm hole has to be drilled through the steering rack platform, which we then painted with metal paint. We then realised that it didn't matter whether the paint had dried or not as we didn't have the metal spacer or the right nut and bolt for its fitment anyway. 

Hole off centre in order to not weaken the mounting. 

Hammerite Metal paint.

Rust Protection

After reviewing some of the images we took during our visit to the Caterham showroom, we noticed that one of the cars had a few rusty parts in the engine bay. We decided to remove the throttle cable mount and give it a lick of paint. 

Rusted parts on a second hand Caterham.

Gearbox Attachment 

Naturally reading the instructions on how to attach which gearbox to which engine, to remove or not to remove bell housing, to plug or not to plug...

In the end we asked Derek who confirmed that on the DURATEC, with a 6 SPEED GEARBOX, the bell housing is left on and the gearbox is bolted to the bell housing. This was done with no gasket (not supplied and not required) and no silicon was used. 

We then plugged the LH speedo hole sealing with silicone sealant, and then sealed the Rh speedo output hole at the base of the box with the plug supplied and using gasket sealant. The gearbox was then relatively easy to bolt on, apart from until we got the the torquing up, which was near impossible due to the clearance around the bold heads not allowing the socket and torque wrench near it.  
  

How the hell is this going to fit!?!?!?!?!?

Engine Mounts

We decided to finish the night with rubber feet which the engine sits on. First we had to clean up one of the ends around the forward hole, top and bottom, then on the frame. This was in order to allow a sufficient earth connection for the engine. Then on the RH rubber mount we had to file down the trailing outside edge as it was fouling on the chassis tubing welds, it was then painted and allowed to dry for fitment next time. As instructed the mounts were loose fitted in order to allow for engine alignment later.

LH mount with 300mm Earth cable.

Finely tuned RH mount.