Build Day 17- Radiator Cowling and Dry Sump Tank

Day 17- Radiator Cowling Flaps And Dry Sump Tank

Cowling Flaps

Got hold of the rubber flaps which cover the holes in the back of the radiator cowling, so we decided to fit them tonight. Annoyingly we had already had to fit the cowling and the radiator, which made it quite difficult to get the rivet gun in the space. In the end we just took it off as it wasn't going to work. 

Riveting Rear of Cowling

Horn

Before we re-attached the cowling and radiator we put some silicone into the ends of the horn power connectors. This is in order to reduce the likelihood of corrosion of the terminals.

Dry Sump Tank

The dry sump tank attaches to the chassis via a bracket at the top and via two P clips at the bottom. Firstly couldn't find a suitable bolt in the kit so used one from our various stores, and generally guessed as to the fitment as there are no instructions for the fitment of the tank, except a grainy aerial photo of the engine bay and a sentence saying to attach it via P clips. We attached 19mm P clips around the diagonal, thinner chassis tubes and not around the horizontal tubes. There is very little room in the space for the tank, millimetres in fact, but it does go in snugly if someone is at the top holding it straight. Care had to be taken when tightening the top bolt, as it was very easy to distort the bracket. After fitment the hoses went on very easily.

Bottom Clips on Chassis.

View from below.

Tank in and looking lovely.

Build Day 5- Gear Box and Bits

Day 5- Gearbox and Bits

Washer Bottle

First off we ran the windscreen washer tube into position before the engine and gearbox can fill the tunnel. We just lowered the tube down through the top of the tunnel and through the seal, then loosely cable tied the hose to the wiring loom, then tucked it in behind the passenger foot well ready for the washer bottle fitment. 

Wiring loom up through tunnel. Heater not plugged in yet as it seems impossible to find the plug without lying upside down in the foot well...

Washer bottle in for dry run, has  to be put in after the engine fitment as the mounts can't get passed otherwise.

Horn

As we have the dry sump system as standard in our car the normal horn mounts are not used due to the dry sump tank being in its place. An 8mm hole has to be drilled through the steering rack platform, which we then painted with metal paint. We then realised that it didn't matter whether the paint had dried or not as we didn't have the metal spacer or the right nut and bolt for its fitment anyway. 

Hole off centre in order to not weaken the mounting. 

Hammerite Metal paint.

Rust Protection

After reviewing some of the images we took during our visit to the Caterham showroom, we noticed that one of the cars had a few rusty parts in the engine bay. We decided to remove the throttle cable mount and give it a lick of paint. 

Rusted parts on a second hand Caterham.

Gearbox Attachment 

Naturally reading the instructions on how to attach which gearbox to which engine, to remove or not to remove bell housing, to plug or not to plug...

In the end we asked Derek who confirmed that on the DURATEC, with a 6 SPEED GEARBOX, the bell housing is left on and the gearbox is bolted to the bell housing. This was done with no gasket (not supplied and not required) and no silicon was used. 

We then plugged the LH speedo hole sealing with silicone sealant, and then sealed the Rh speedo output hole at the base of the box with the plug supplied and using gasket sealant. The gearbox was then relatively easy to bolt on, apart from until we got the the torquing up, which was near impossible due to the clearance around the bold heads not allowing the socket and torque wrench near it.  
  

How the hell is this going to fit!?!?!?!?!?

Engine Mounts

We decided to finish the night with rubber feet which the engine sits on. First we had to clean up one of the ends around the forward hole, top and bottom, then on the frame. This was in order to allow a sufficient earth connection for the engine. Then on the RH rubber mount we had to file down the trailing outside edge as it was fouling on the chassis tubing welds, it was then painted and allowed to dry for fitment next time. As instructed the mounts were loose fitted in order to allow for engine alignment later.

LH mount with 300mm Earth cable.

Finely tuned RH mount.